Check out this nice video of a morning shoot that Alan Murphy and I did together in South Texas. Still images from the shoot are interspersed with the video of the birds' activity. It makes me want to go back right now!
More information about Alan's workshop where this video was shot is here:
I'll also be assisting Alan in two workshops in Roma, TX as I have been for the past few years.
From books, to iPhone apps, to podcasts, Facebook and Twitter, Rick Sammon is everywhere. A Canon Explorer of Light, Rick is also everyman’s photographer. One of Rick’s basic photography tenets is that he “Specializes in not specializing”.
When we talked to Rick for this article, his opening comment to us was “I never thought, in 1969, when I was 19 and dancing naked in the mud at Woodstock, I’d have 36 books and a bunch of iPhone and iPad apps”. We knew we were in for a good story.
After Woodstock, Rick attended the famous Berklee College of Music in Boston, receiving his formal education in Arrangement and Composition. He wanted to play jazz, and play he did. Late night shows and jam sessions over the next few years left him plenty of free day time, so to stir his creative juices, he began shooting images and submitting them to publications.
In 1978 Rick submitted an image and article to Studio Photography Magazine. On this first submission, the magazine invited him to be their editor. Rick traded in one keyboard for another, and entered the publication world.
Good editors get noticed, and the giant (at that time) Minolta Corporation’s main ad agency came in and snapped Rick in 1980 up to head up Minolta’s ad campaigns. Rick now had to wear a suit and tie, and was nested high up in Rockefeller Center. In the 80’s, life as Minolta ad manager was good—Minolta was rocking, the photo industry was exploding, and yes, Rick went to Studio 54 now and then.
Rick’s desire to capture images and get them published still burned. But as an ad man for a camera line, Rick wasn’t allowed to publish, at the peril of his job. Rick’s solution? Submit his images under made-up names! No, we can’t disclose those names. Suffice it to say that Rick continued to be published.
Rick had always had a passion for scuba diving as well as photography, and in 1985 he developed a specific five-year plan for a career change. For the next five years, whenever possible, and on every vacation, Rick dove and stocked his portfolio with underwater images. Five years later, in 1990, Rick had amassed enough images to leave his advertising job and publish underwater photography books. Going from an office 70 stories up to a studio 70 feet under, Rick published five underwater photography books while traveling the world over the next few years. He became a full time photographer, albeit a wet one.
In 1998, in Rick’s own words, “the world had seen enough images of a Clownfish”. Rick crawled back on land, and began to capture images of the people and of the cultures he had encountered in his travels while diving. That trajectory, from specialization to not specializing, has propelled Rick to the worldwide photography stage.
When you see Rick talk in person, or when you watch his video podcasts, his enthusiasm for photography—all types of photography—is infectious. Although he knows the technical side of photography and processing inside out, he doesn’t bog down on those minute details. He stresses the basic values of photography: preparation, planning, vision, awareness, and applies them to facets of our craft too numerous to mention, be it HDR, panoramas, processing, gear and more. One basic theme permeates all his thought, tips and tricks: photography is your hobby, your avocation, so make sure and have fun!
Rick’s list of accolades and achievements are almost too numerous to mention. His books have won the Golden Light Award and the Ben Franklin Award. He’s a Canon Explorer of Light, has been nominated to the Photoshop Hall of Fame, and is a member of the elite Explorer’s Club. Rick has photographed in nearly 100 countries around the world, and gives dozens of workshops each year.
Rick has embraced new technology and the current trend of social media. He’s actively producing apps on iTunes for the iPhone and the iPad, and you can find Rick on podcasts, Twitter, Facebook and more. As always, Rick is not sitting still. Who knows what his next five-year plan will be?
Editors note: Speaking of workshops, I’m pleased to be assisting Rick this October in beautiful St. Augustine, Florida, at the St. Augustinescapes Workshops. Come join us! For more info seewww.staugustinescapes.com.
You can learn more about Rick’s books, workshops, apps and more at www.RickSammon.com
Catch Rick with Juan Pons on their website The Digital Photo Experience at www.dpexperience.com
I am not much of a landscape photographer, I tend to concentrate more on wildlife, but sometimes the landscape is so majestic, as it is in the Grand Tetons, that it is hard to make a bad image. I made this image (MAKE SURE to click on it to enlarge it) last week during my Spring Yellowstone & Grand Tetons photo workshop. We had some pretty uncooperative weather the first few days we where there, but we had a few occasions during those rainy days where we had a pretty clear view of the mountains.
That morning, I took the opportunity to make a large HDR & stitched panorama. This image was made by taking 18 individual frames. Here is a quick rundown of the process to making an image such as this.
Level the base of your tripod as best as you can (having a bubble level on the tripod helps)
Level your camera as best as you can (use a bubble level on your cameras hot shoe)
For this panorama I kept my camera horizontally, but sometimes it makes sense to set the camera in a vertical orientation, and a good “L” bracket is a must for this.
Pan your camera from left to right while looking thru the viewfinder to make sure your camera is level.
While panning also make sure you are capturing all of the elements of the landscape you plan on including. In the image above, I had to make sure I had a wide enough lens to capture the top of the mountain and the foreground.
Set your camera on manual mode and manual focus.
Point your camera to the most important or prominent part of the landscape.
Focus and set your exposure appropriately.
Take a picture of your hand or create some other kind of marker to make it easier to spot your HDR and/or panoramas when you download your images.
Set the HDR bracket on your camera. In this case I used a 3 image bracket, -2, 0, +2 to capture the brightest part of the image as well as some of the darker parts.
Swing your camera all the way to the left (or to the right, it’s up to you).
Using a remote control or the timer on your camera take the first bracket set.
Swing your camera right (or left) while overlapping at least 1/3 of the image. What works for me is to peer thru my viewfinder, while fixating on an element of the landscape that is about 1/3 into the image from the right of the frame, then swing my camera right until that element is about 1/3 from the left of the frame.
Continue doing this until you you reach the end of your panorama.
Now you’ve completed half of the work, next up you need to process those images. In the case of the image above of the Grand Tetons, I ended up with a panorama that was 6 images wide, and since I created a 3 image bracket for each I ended up with a total of 18 images that I needed to work with. Keep in mind that the more images you create, the longer the processing is going to take and the more memory you will need on your computer to work with the image. Just to give you an idea, my final image file, after HDR, stitching and cropping came out to a 50MegaPixel image, at about 1GB in size!!!
Here is a basic workflow for creating the final HDR, stitched image:
Select the most important or prominent bracket set from all the images you took.
Bring those images into Photomatix and work the settings in Photomatix to create the look you want. There is no ONE right set of settings here; They will certainly vary depending on the subject, the bracket set, and your taste. In my case I prefer a more realistic look.
Once you have worked the settings in Photomatix to make the image the way you like it, save those settings as a “preset,” make sure to name it something that you’ll recall back in a few minutes.
Now go back into Photomatix and under the “Automate” menu select “Batch Processing…”
Here you want to provide Photomatix with all the files you took for this HDR stitched panorama, in my case all 18 images. Also you need to tell Photomatix how many images you had in each bracket set, again in my case 3, and then tell it which preset to use; the one you created in the step above.
Let Photomatix process all your images and when finished, the result will be one HDR processed image for each one of your bracket sets.
We are not done quite yet. Now you need to stitch the images together. In my case I use Photoshop to do the stitching but there are other excellent tools that also do a great job.
So bring those HDR images (in my case 6 of them) into your stitching program and let it go thru the images and merge them together into one image.
Now you are ready to do some of your final processing on the image. First make sure your horizon is level, crop the image as necessary or use the new content aware fill in Photoshop CS5 to fill in those empty spaces, and make all your contrast, color and sharpening adjustments you normally would do. Remember at this point you are dealing with a BIG file so make sure your computer is up to the task.
That is it! I hope you found this quick tutorial on HDR stitched panoramas useful. As always if you have any specific questions, feel free to post them in the comments below.
If you don’t own Photomatix and are interested in getting a copy, you can get a 15% discount when purchasing Photomatix, simply make sure to use this code upon checkout: “OPG15” to receive the discount.
Here are a few other articles on DPE on both HDR and Stitched panoramas that I thought you might find useful.
Last month my photography workshop brought us to the Sister’s Meal Festival in a remote area of China. It’s truly an amazing experience: hundreds of women get dressed in heavy silver and cloth outfits and perform a dance in the hope of attracting a husband.
The outfits weigh more than 40 pounds. Dancing in the hot sun for hours can’t be fun.
Anyway, the light was bad: harsh, direct sunlight. Adding to the challenge, the silver head dresses reflected the bright light, and the subject’s faces were shaded by the headdresses. Aaargh!
To remedy that situation, we used our flashes for daylight fill-in flash, and a reflector and a diffuser – accessories that compress the brightness range of a scene so that it can easily be recorded by a digital camera, without blown-out highlights and dark shadows.
Because we were prepared for the worst, we were able to get evenly exposed images like the one below.
To help capture and convey the excitement and size of the event, I used my 15mm full-frame fish-eye lens and held it above my head and tilted it downward for a unique viewpoint. This lens is great for capturing large groups, because it enhances the way a scene is recorded – capturing an extremely wide scene and exaggerating perspective.
The idea today was to “tell the whole story” of the festival. Telling the whole story can easily be accomplished simply by taking wide-angle shots and close-up shots – and everything in between. Everyone did a great job. More story-telling photos to come.
If you are interested in joining my 2011 China workshop, shoot me an email at email hidden; JavaScript is required. DPE’s Juan Pons will most likely join the fun!
Explore the light – and explore telling the whole story.
You may have noticed that when referring to the process of photographing something I use the verb “make” and not “take.” The use of the word “make” on my part is VERY deliberate. To me, “making” an image requires fore-thought, planing and skill. Yes we all get lucky from time to time and “take” a great image without much thought, but in order to consistently create great images you have to be disciplined, prepare, plan and pre-visualize.
Pre-visualization is a simple and effective technique that can help in providing direction and focus to your photography, whether that is wildlife, portrait, lifestyle or whatever other type of photography you are into.
All of us, wildlife photographers, have those destinations we dream about going to, whether it is Africa, Madagascar, Costa Rica, Yellowstone, Alaska, or wherever. Naturally we want to make the best of the time we are there, and be productive and effective at making pictures. This is were pre-visualization can help.
Pre-visualization is nothing more than creating, ahead of time, in your minds eye the images you want to create. In other words creating a mental list of those images that for you will constitute a successful shoot. This will provide you with focus and purpose when at your destination and hopefully ensures that your time is spent as efficiently as possible.
Let me give you an example using the image above. I had a very concrete idea of what I was looking to shoot, and in this case the location was not so much a factor. I have been fascinated by Luna moths since I first laid my eyes on one when I was about 12 years old at summer camp in New Hampshire. I learned about their behavior, their life cycles, their preferred foods (they only eat while in their caterpillar stage, as the moths do not have any functioning mouth parts), etc. Typically, Luna moths have 2 or 3 generations in a year, with one of those generations overwinter in their protective cocoons. I had noticed that those generations that overwinter had much more vibrant colors than those that only lived through the summer; and that in some cases the Luna moths around my home had a very vibrant purple band around the bottom edges of their wings, a vibrant purple that matched almost exactly the color of the blooming Redbud trees that are so prevalent around my home.
With that information I then pre-visualized this image of an overwintering Luna moth with the purple color resting on a Redbud branch. Without going into too much detail, I had to get very lucky to find a newly emerged Luna moth with the right colors during the brief period of time in the spring when the Redbud are blooming (the flowers last approximately 3 weeks). With this pre-visualization in my head I worked hard to find the right Luna at the right time for 3 consecutive springs. One year I got exceptionally lucky and got the image I had in my head all that time.
Where was this image taken? In my front yard! The only reason I was able to get this image was because I was prepared, I had studied this two species (Luna moth and Redbud tree), and pre-visualized the image I wanted to capture. This pre-visualization helped me persevere for more than 3 years to get the image I was looking for.
Here is another example. Having observed Carolina Chickadees for many years I had noticed that they appear to be very playful. So I set my mind to try and capture that playfulness. I had also noticed that when trying to perch on a thin, smooth branch they had a propensity to hanging upside down. I then proceeded to visualize this image of a chickadee hanging from a small flowering branch. I created a setup on one of my bird feeders trying to make this image. I captured lots of other great images, of many other bird species, but I kept at it looking to make that one image I had pre-visualized.
IAfter a few days of persistence I was rewarded with the image below:
Carolina Chickadee, Chatham County, NC
In summary, pre-visualization can help you in focusing your efforts, and make sure you make the most out of any shoot. Study your subjects, the location, and environment in order to help you conceive of compelling images.
As I like to say “Luck favors the prepared”
This article brings “Wildlife Week” to a conclusion. I hope you enjoyed these articles and that you got something from them!
If you want to be successful at wildlife photography you need two things; patience and more patience. Well, persistance helps as well.
In all seriousness, besides the few lucky shots we all get from time to time, you need loads and loads of patience and need to be very persistent in order to consistently make memorable images. Wildlife can’t be directed, rushed or posed, otherwise it would not be wildlife.
Here are three tips to help you:
30 Minute Rule – When observing and photographing wildlife there is what is commonly referred to as the 30 minute rule. What this means is that once you enter an environment you have caused a disturbance with the wildlife within the immediate area. Wildlife will take approximately 30 minutes to “settle” down and accept your presence, given that you are still during this period and have broken your “human” outline. You break your outline by covering yourself with some simple camouflage netting or other similar material. You’ll be surprised how close some wildlife will get to you once you have done this.
Work Subjects Over and Over – This simply means never being “content” with the images you have of a specific subject or species; never thinking you have made the best image you’ll ever make. Keep working the same subjects over and over, make more images with different backgrounds, under different weather and light conditions, and during different times of the year. Just as an example, during my last “Winter in Yellowstone” photo workshop (Feb 2010) we had the opportunity to make quite a few images of big horn sheep, some under very spectacular conditions. Most workshop participants had dozens if not hundreds of images of the sheep. On a different day, we ran into the sheep again and I asked the participants if they wanted to make some more images of the sheep, and all indicated that they thought they already had all the images they wanted/needed. I immediately stopped the vehicle and made everyone get out to make some more images, explaining that although I believed this was the same group of sheep, the conditions where not the same as the previous day and you never know what will happen. Not more than 15 minutes after we set up to make some more images the sheep started fighting! We spent the next hour or two making some incredible images like the one above! Had we continued on thinking we had all the images we ever wanted we would have missed this spectacular display!
Look for Patterns in Behavior – I have to admit that I am not the most patient person on the world, specially when I am sitting inside a blind in sweltering heat. In order to limit the amount of time I spend in situations like this, I look for patterns in behavior of my subjects and schedule my time in the blind accordingly. This way I maximize the chances of making great images while in the blind.