Posts Tagged ‘panorama’

Panoramics – when one image just isn’t enough.

Thursday, August 5th, 2010

This week we're running a series of workflow tips by pro photographer Richard Peters.  Check back each day for a new tip!

When I was taking the shot below I only had my Nikon 200-400 VR with me, which even at 200mm was so long I could only get a section of the scene in frame. So, to solve the problem, I took twelve shots and stitched them together! Lets find out how I turned the mess below into something worth keeping.

All 12 shots side by side.

12 RAW shots ready to be stitched

Step one: Manual settings for all shots & overlaping each frame

The first step to creating a panoramic image is making sure the camera is set to manual so ALL the photos have the same exposure, aperture, shutter speed, white balance and focus. I have the camera in aperture priority so I can control the depth of field, I then look through the viewfinder at my first shot, use auto focus to get it where I want it (then switch it straight to manual and leave it) and check the shutter speed for my chosen aperture. I then switch to manual metering and dial in the settings the meter reading had given me. You may want to take a test shot and check your histogram to be %100 sure no exposure compensation is needed.

When you take your shots make sure you overlap each frame by around %20-30. The more overlap the more the software will have to work out the joins later, so you can do less or more but I find this amount works well. Also try to take the images in portrait orientation…its quicker to do landscape, yes…but you’ll get a higher resolution capturing the same photos needed in portrait.

You will notice the shots above have a colour miss-match. I did not have white balance set to manual as I put my hand up to being lazy and alter the white balance back on the computer. If you can use a tripod to make sure your images are %100 straight and lined up to each other then do, these were taken handheld so I had to take a mental note when doing the second row of roughly where each overlap should be.

Step two: preparing your images

I then opened my images all at once in CS3 to do the following:

  1. Hit the select all button to highlight all images
  2. Adjust the white balance & exposure if needed so all setting are applied to all images
  3. Hit Save to save these images with the new settings.
CS3 RAW dialogue box

CS3 RAW dialogue box

Image stitching software

I now open all the images in my favorite panoramic software, CS3 can do the job but I prefer to use Autopano Pro. This software operates as simply as checking a few boxes and hitting GO for the most part. It will do colour correction and arrange all the images for you at the click of a button…its so self explanatory I won’t go in to detail about operating the software for now, but if anyone has any further questions about this software then ask away.

Step three: editing in photoshop

Once you have run your images through your software you should have something along these lines. The funky square edges are normal as you’ll never get an image where all the shots line up exactly as that’s not how the software works, it will always juggle the image positions slightly to get a perfect alignment. Shots with coastal lines in the distance can be tricky as the contour of the land can mislead what you think is or isn’t straight.

Stitched image ready for editing

Stitched image ready for editing

I used this image as an example as it shows very nicely what can happen if your not paying attention! The horizon is not straight and, because I decided once I’d taken the shots I wanted to add more to the right, there is a gap between some shots where I got my overlap wrong. You don’t want this to happen as it adds to your editing time…that gap between the images is almost 200 pixels wide and 2500 long! Which brings me to a final point…

Word of warning about computer power

This image is made up of twelve, 12mp Nikon D3 images saved as jpegs (tiff would be larger file size but I did jpeg here for faster editing) so your going to need some pretty good processing power if you want to start combining lots of images together. Of course you can just stick with 3 or 4 images but depending on the scene and what part of it you want to capture more may be required. Here it was my only choice as I didn’t have even close to a wide angle lens with me. Just to give you an idea of the resolution, see the Image Size box below after I had flattened the image to remove my adjustment layers…this is pretty high resolution so if you like to print big, you can print really big!

 

File sizes can get very big

File sizes can get very big

So that’s it, edit to your normal tastes, crop out the excess area’s that are not required and your left with a beautiful image, and one which in this case, would not have been possible without using this technique. So thats it, 12 Nikon D3 images, taken at 200mm, f8 edited together to give a wide angle view of the lovely coral beach area of the Isle of Skye. To give the shot some scale, you can just make out two people walking over the hill in the middle of the shot towards the sand…

 

The end result

The end result

Learn more about Richard, read his articles and view his videos on his blog:  Richard Peters Photography Blog

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Grand Tetons Landscape, HDR Stitched Panorama

Wednesday, June 30th, 2010

Grand Tetons, HDR Stitched Panorama - ©2010 Juan A. Pons (click to enlarge)

I am not much of a landscape photographer, I tend to concentrate more on wildlife, but sometimes the landscape is so majestic, as it is in the Grand Tetons, that it is hard to make a bad image. I made this image (MAKE SURE to click on it to enlarge it) last week during my Spring Yellowstone & Grand Tetons photo workshop. We had some pretty uncooperative weather the first few days we where there, but we had a few occasions during those rainy days where we had a pretty clear view of the mountains.

That morning, I took the opportunity to make a large HDR & stitched panorama. This image was made by taking 18 individual frames. Here is a quick rundown of the process to making an image such as this.

  1. First you need a sturdy tripod and a good tripod head
  2. Level the base of your tripod as best as you can (having a bubble level on the tripod helps)
  3. Level your camera as best as you can (use a bubble level on your cameras hot shoe)
  4. For this panorama I kept my camera horizontally, but sometimes it makes sense to set the camera in a vertical orientation, and a good “L” bracket is a must for this.
  5. Pan your camera from left to right while looking thru the viewfinder to make sure your camera is level.
  6. While panning also make sure you are capturing all of the elements of the landscape you plan on including. In the image above, I had to make sure I had a wide enough lens to capture the top of the mountain and the foreground.
  7. Set your camera on manual mode and manual focus.
  8. Point your camera to the most important or prominent part of the landscape.
  9. Focus and set your exposure appropriately.
  10. Take a picture of your hand or create some other kind of marker to make it easier to spot your HDR and/or panoramas when you download your images.
  11. Set the HDR bracket on your camera. In this case I used a 3 image bracket, -2, 0, +2 to capture the brightest part of the image as well as some of the darker parts.
  12. Swing your camera all the way to the left (or to the right, it’s up to you).
  13. Using a remote control or the timer on your camera take the first bracket set.
  14. Swing your camera right (or left) while overlapping at least 1/3 of the image. What works for me is to peer thru my viewfinder, while fixating on an element of the landscape that is about 1/3 into the image from the right of the frame, then swing my camera right until that element is about 1/3 from the left of the frame.
  15. Continue doing this until you you reach the end of your panorama.

Now you’ve completed half of the work, next up you need to process those images. In the case of the image above of the Grand Tetons, I ended up with a panorama that was 6 images wide, and since I created a 3 image bracket for each I ended up with a total of 18 images that I needed to work with. Keep in mind that the more images you create, the longer the processing is going to take and the more memory you will need on your computer to work with the image. Just to give you an idea, my final image file, after HDR, stitching and cropping came out to a 50MegaPixel image, at about 1GB in size!!!

Here is a basic workflow for creating the final HDR, stitched image:

  1. Select the most important or prominent bracket set from all the images you took.
  2. Bring those images into Photomatix and work the settings in Photomatix to create the look you want. There is no ONE right set of settings here; They will certainly vary depending on the subject, the bracket set, and your taste. In my case I prefer a more realistic look.
  3. Once you have worked the settings in Photomatix to make the image the way you like it, save those settings as a “preset,” make sure to name it something that you’ll recall back in a few minutes.
  4. Now go back into Photomatix and under the “Automate” menu select “Batch Processing…”
  5. Here you want to provide Photomatix with all the files you took for this HDR stitched panorama, in my case all 18 images. Also you need to tell Photomatix how many images you had in each bracket set, again in my case 3, and then tell it which preset to use; the one you created in the step above.
  6. Let Photomatix process all your images and when finished, the result will be one HDR processed image for each one of your bracket sets.

We are not done quite yet. Now you need to stitch the images together. In my case I use Photoshop to do the stitching but there are other excellent tools that also do a great job.

So bring those HDR images (in my case 6 of them) into your stitching program and let it go thru the images and merge them together into one image.

Now you are ready to do some of your final processing on the image. First make sure your horizon is level, crop the image as necessary or use the new content aware fill in Photoshop CS5 to fill in those empty spaces, and make all your contrast, color and sharpening adjustments you normally would do. Remember at this point you are dealing with a BIG file so make sure your computer is up to the task.

That is it! I hope you found this quick tutorial on HDR stitched panoramas useful. As always if you have any specific questions, feel free to post them in the comments below.

If you don’t own Photomatix and are interested in getting a copy, you can get a 15% discount when purchasing Photomatix, simply make sure to use this code upon checkout: “OPG15” to receive the discount.

Here are a few other articles on DPE on both HDR and Stitched panoramas that I thought you might find useful.

 

Keep up with Juan on The Digital Photo Experience and learn about Juan's workshops at Wild Nature Tours.

Photomerge in Photoshop

Wednesday, March 24th, 2010

 

Canon EOS-1Ds Mark III, EF70-200mm f/2.8L USM, 1/250 sec at f / 6.7, ISO 100

 
PhotoMerge in Photoshop offers many creative options for photographers!

Here are examples of recent images of mine using PhotoMerge. I’ll discuss my approach for each image, and hopefully you will get some ideas for your own photography.

Yosemite (see above)

Several years ago, I found myself in nearby Yosemite Valley after a snowstorm. The fresh snow and low-angled light made a spectacular scene! I decided that this was a perfect time to create a panoramic image. Using my favorite 70-200mm lens, I composed vertically and exposed three images across the breadth of the Valley. I didn’t bother to level the tripod and camera since the light was changing quickly. However, I did frame more widely since I knew I would have to crop later in post-processing. PhotoMerge won’t align perfectly if each image isn’t linear to each other, but as long as you overlap the frames by about 30%, and you can visualize the final crop without sacrificing the composition, you’ll be OK.

 

Pebbles

Canon EOS-1Ds Mark III, TS-E90mm f/2.8 + Canon2x Extender, 6.0 sec at f / 27, ISO 100

In my backyard, I have a rectangular bucket full of Mexican Pebbles that I bought many years ago from the local landscaping supplier. I aimed to the left for the first frame, then used the Shift function of my Tilt Shift lens, recomposing to include the stones in the right side of the bucket without moving the camera or tripod. I imported the resulting images into Lightroom, and inspected all the pairs I made to find the best and sharpest ones. I selected those two, then used LR’s Photo>Edit In>Merge to Panorama in PS.

 

Patio

Canon EOS-1Ds Mark III, TS-E90mm f/2.8, 2.0 sec at f / 13, ISO 100

I made this image on my patio. The water reflects my ochre-colored stucco wall. I observed the afternoon light, timing my session for when the stones and water were in shadow but the wall remained lit. I was trying to find a good composition with a single frame but it wasn’t working. In order to isolate this pattern, I used my Canon TS-E90mm f/2.8 combined with my Canon 2X Extender to create a 180mm TS lens! I used the shift function as well as the forward tilt for increased depth of field. I made one exposure with the shift all the way to the left, and then “shifted” the lens all the way to the right while making sure I had enough overlap for PhotoMerge in PS4 to create the pano. I selected the best two images in Lightroom, then used LR’s Photo menu to “send” the two files to PS4 for merging.

Enjoy these creative options!

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HDR Panoramic Photography

Wednesday, November 18th, 2009

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