Posts Tagged ‘tips’

Quick and Easy Canvas Extension

Monday, August 2nd, 2010

This week we're running a series of workflow tips by pro photographer Richard Peters.  Check back each day for a new tip!

Ever had one of those shots that ‘almost’ worked but the framing was just off? Or you wanted to clone out a small distraction near the edge of the frame but there was too much detail to try and match with the clone stamp? Well here is a very quick and neat way to add in some extra canvas, and fill it with original picture information so it matches the rest of the image perfectly. It takes 30 seconds and requires no fiddling with the clone stamp and paint brush – which also makes this technique ideal for Photoshop beginners as well as more advanced users.

Before and After canvas extension

Before and After canvas extension

Ok, so the base image I am using for this demonstration is a little tight in the frame but it’s nice enough and serves as a good image to do this quick tutorial with. It’s a simple duck swimming across the water, however, I ran out of room to pan and so caught the duck too far to the right of frame so the composition isn’t ideal. The image would of course look better if the duck had a little more room in front of it than behind. The way a lot of people would tackle this is to extend the canvas and use the clone stamp and paint brush to try and put some detail back in the shot. This method is fine if you only want to touch up a plain area, but, as soon as you start needing to add in area’s that have some detail or a variation in light/colour change etc…well, things can start to get fiddly and time consuming as you try to match the old canvas with the new…but without having duplicate area’s of detail or patches of light and dark that don’t flow together well – the tell tell sign of a rushed clone job.

With this image there are some texture/ripples in the water and although they are quite simple I don’t really want to have to spend time trying to clone them. So, let’s see how I quickly gave the duck a little more space to swim in to, whilst still retaining the original texture and ripples in the water just in front of the duck.

Original Image

Original Image

Step 1: Extend the canvas
The first thing I want to do is extend the canvas so I have some room to work with. Originally I suggested the old method of going to Image – Canvas Sizeand entering the new measurement in the Canvas Size box as per the image below.

Adding Canvas

Adding Canvas

However, I have since been told about a faster way that I didn’t know about (many thanks). So now I will do it this way, first select the crop tool and make sure the dimensions boxes for it are blank as per the diagram below.

Blank the Crop dimension boxes

Blank the Crop dimension boxes

Then, draw a box around the outside of the image…

Draw a box over the whole image with the crop tool

Draw a box over the whole image with the crop tool

Then, simply grab the far right, middle anchor point (little square box) and drag it across to the right as far as I want my new canvas to extend.

Drag the far right anchor point as far as you need

Drag the far right anchor point as far as you need

I finally hit enter and I have an image that looks like the one below. It’s the original image with a nice big black bar at the end (it could also be white, it doesn’t matter what colour you choose when you extend the canvas). This is usually the point when you might think about heading for the clone stamp tool…instead, here is the clever bit to this method…

Image with new canvas

Image with new canvas

Step 2: Make your selection
Instead of cloning some of the image on to the new bit of canvas, we are simply going to use some of what is already there and stretch it across a little. To do this I need to first make a selection of the area I want to extend across, and I will do this with the Marquee tool – which looks like a square made up of dotted lines. It can be found top left of your tool palette in Photoshop.

The Marquee tool

The Marquee tool

Now, what I have done is highlighted the area I want to stretch, there isn’t much space to play with as the duck is so near the edge of the frame, but there is just enough to make a usable selection.

Top Tip: The bigger the area you can select to stretch the better as if you stretch a section of image too far it will start to pixelate, so keep an eye out that you don’t take things too far.

Making the selection

Making the selection

Now I want to copy that selection and paste it in to a new layer, so I hit CTRL C on the keyboard to copy, followed by CONTROL V to paste it on to a new layer. It will appear in exactly the same place on the image so at first glance you might think there is nothing there, but a quick look at the layers palette will confirm it is.

TOP TIP: Hitting CNTRL J on your selected area will automatically copy and paste to a new layer for you, if you want to speed things up even more!

Selection in own layer

Selection in own layer

Step 3: Extending the selection
Ok, so now I have made the selection and copied it to it’s own layer. Next I want to stretch it by going to Edit – Free Transform in the drop down menu at the top of the screen or by hitting CTRL T on the keyboard.

Transform menu

Transform menu

The selected area now has six little boxes around it, these allow me to drag the selected area in any direction. I want to click and hold on the right hand side middle one and pull it across to the right – not too far but just enough to give the duck space to swim in to.

Top Tip: You can drag the box in any direction using the little squares, so you can stretch your selection in diagonals too if you need, not just in straight lines.

Selection ready to stretch

Selection ready to stretch

Once I have stretched as far as I need, I hit enter to confirm the transformation and turn the transform function off.

Selection stretched

Selection stretched

And that’s it, all done! Now all I need to do is flatten the image (Layer – Flatten Image) and crop to taste. The whole process takes about 30 seconds from start to finish and gives a much cleaner look than cloning does as you’re using picture information that is already there so it looks natural.

Finished Image

Finished Image

Another Example
In the image below of a Great Spotted Woodpecker. The background went to a dark green above the woodpeckers head and even after I cropped in a little I was left with a small, distracting line at the top of the frame – as you can see on the left image. Rather than crop in even tighter or mask the tree out and try to clone over the dark area, I simple extended the canvas up a little and stretched the section just below the dark patch. It was only a small change but the result is a cleaner looking image. This is the only decent image I have to date of a GSW so I was happy making this small change, until I take a better one.

Small upwards extension

Small upwards extension

There will always be exceptions to the rule of course when this technique does not work. However, next time you need to add some canvas or crop something small from near the edge of the frame, give it a try. Just remember, keep it fairly simple, if you have to go adding huge great chunks of canvas the chances are you should be taking the shot again! This method, like all processing, works best when only used in a subtle way.

Final Thought
I see removing elements from a photo or altering the shape of content within it, in a different way to levels/saturation etc which is just enhancing what is already there and not removing or distorting it. I don’t frown upon anyone who edits pictures in any way, each to their own. I just look upon my own images from the eyes of most of the major photography competitions rules, in which a photo edited in the way shown above would not be eligible for entry – so I don’t make a habit of doing it too often.

That said, it is a great method for saving an image for other use that might otherwise have been destined for the bin!

Learn more about Richard, read his articles and view his videos on his blog:  Richard Peters Photography Blog

Check out Richard's  YouTube channel for great video content, and follow him on Twitter.

One Photo, One Dozen Photography Tips

Thursday, June 3rd, 2010

Photograph © Rick Sammon. All rights reserved.

Here are some quick tips for portrait shooters. Enjoy

  1. Make a photograph — don’t simply take one. Work with the subject, props, posing and lighting to create a unique image.
  2. The name of the game is to fill the frame. In other words, crop out the boring stuff in a scene so that the viewer’s attention is drawn to the main subject — immediately.
  3. Crop creatively. More often than not, a picture can be enhanced with basic cropping in the digital darkroom. Experiment with different crops. Also try to see pictures within a picture.
  4. Remember that light illuminates; shadows define. That is the first step to lighting a portrait.
  5. Carefully light the scene. In this case, I used a combination of available light and the light from a flash to create a well-lit portrait.
  6. Choose your lens wisely. Think about how the focal length and f-stop will affect the end result. Use at least a medium telephoto lens (85mm) for head and shoulder shot. Wider-angle lenses are okay for environmental portraits (like this one).
  7. Carefully pose your subject. Pay special attention to where the subject is looking (toward or away from the camera). Also pay attention to the hands.
  8. Shoot RAW files because they are more forgiving than JPEG files – and because you can rescue more from overexposed highlight areas than you can from JPEG files.
  9. Use the lowest possible ISO for the cleanest (little or no noise) possible shot.
  10. Don’t over saturate an image in Photoshop (or Aperture or Lightroom or anywhere.) When areas of an image are oversaturated, details can be softened and lost. If the reds here had been over saturated, the detail and the folds in the dress could have been lost.
  11. Think selectively. Apply adjustments (especially sharpening) to select areas of an image rather than applying them globally (to the entire image).
  12. Always sharpen an image as the final step – before you save your file as a TIFF file or PSD files with all those adjustment layers (just in case you change your mind about how you enhanced your image.)

Explore the light,

Rick

Keep up with Rick at the Digital Photo Experience.

Fun With a Home Made Nest Box

Tuesday, March 30th, 2010

ALM3564

For years I have been wanting to get an image of a Bluebird on a natural tree cavity.  The chances of finding a nest cavity that is low enough to the ground for photography is slim, so I decided to take matters into my own hands.

The first step was scouting for a dead tree that had limbs with either a hollow or a soft center.  Once I located a tree, I tapped on the limb to see if the wood was solid or soft.  After finding the right limb, I cut off a 3 foot section and took it home.

To make the stump hollow enough for a bird to nest in it, I used a screwdriver to chip away at the soft wood inside.  I stopped removing the inside wood when I got about 4 inches from the bottom.

Below is an image looking down into the hollowed out stump.

ALM3569


Once the stump was hollowed out, I placed a wood cap on each end on the stump. The lower cap acted as a base to attach a stand and the top cap was removable to allow cleaning of the nest box after breeding season is over.  I also chose a good spot on the side of the stump to drill a two inch hole for the birds to enter.

Below is a close up of the stump with the two caps and the entrance hole.

a18


Mounting the stump on a pole and placing it away from my fence made it attractive to the local Bluebirds.

ALM3186


It only took a couple of days before the Bluebirds were checking out the new nest box!

My next challenge was the background that I wanted in the image.  My yard is small with limited backgrounds that have shadows and a busy fence.  To get around that problem, I made a board out of 4 printed images and pasted them on some foam core. Using a stand, the foam core background was raised to the desired height.

In the image below, you can see the nest box, the printed background, and the location of my camera.

ALM3564


Now I was ready to take some images.

After covering my self and photo equipment with Kwik Camo I waited for the Bluebirds to return.

Below is the final result that I had envisioned.

Eastern-Bluebird-89


Many times, when the female would enter the cavity, the male would hover outside providing for some fun flight shots.

Eastern-Bluebird-87


My next project with the nest box started a few weeks later when my peach tree was in full bloom.  I wanted an image of a perched Bluebird with a springtime feel to it.  The peach tree in my front yard donated some limbs to this project :-)

Placing a limb in front of the next box provided a perch for the bird. Choosing a perch carefully so that it had just the right amount of gap between the flowers, allowed me to know exactly where the bird would land.  Placing more limbs with blooms between the perch and the background gave the image some depth and continued the color theme throughout the image.

Here is the set up with the blooms and background.

AMM2848


The final image!

Eastern-Bluebird-93-442x650

 

You can learn more about these songbird setups in Alan's Guide to Songbird Setups CD in the Store.

You can read more about Alan, browse his images, and learn about workshops here.


Using a Water Drip to Attract Birds

Monday, February 22nd, 2010

AMwater

Since Chris Klapheke and I are heading down to Roma, Texas for one of my workshops, I thought it would be good time to post a few tips on using water drips to attract birds.  In Roma, we put a water feature in front of every blind.  Due to the dry climate and the sound of the water dripping, we get lots of different drinkers and bathers.

We dig out a water feature in the ground and line it with plastic to hold water.  As most of the blinds are sunken in Roma, the water drip on the ground is still at eye level.  You can also elevate a water drip as shown below.

Below is my set-up that I have been using during the Spring and Fall migration on the Upper Texas Coast.  I have an elevated pond made out of a bucket with a 2 foot X 2 foot piece of plywood on top.  I place a few rocks around the edges of the plywood and lay a piece of pond liner on top.  The final touch is running a small drip hose to it so there is always fresh running water.  The sound attracts the birds and lets them know the water is fresh. To fine tune the dripping you can purchase a small drip hose from a department store and attach it to your garden hose. Some models even come with a small spigot so that the drip rate and volume can be adjusted.

AMelevate

 

When there is no running water nearby, I use a five gallon jug that has an adjustable flow lever. A camping jug will last two days with a steady drip. I support the jug with a photographer's backdrop frame.  A milk jug with a pin hole will also work.

AMdripjug

 

Set up near trees so the birds feel safe.  Use only a few perches, and you will be rewarded!

Look for more posts from our Roma workshop!

 

You can read more about Alan, browse his wonderful images and learn about his workshops here.

Tips for Using a Monopod

Wednesday, February 10th, 2010

You may have heard me say that I shoot with a tripod 95% of the time. More accurately what I mean to say is that I shoot with some sort of support for my camera 95% of time.

This can be a tripod, a bean bag, or even a monopod. A monopod can be a very very effective as a support for your camera, but often people get frustrated when using a monopod.

In this short video I will give you a few tips on using a monopod effectively. If you'd like to see a selection of monopods and monopod accessories check them out at the OPG Store

Be Ready For The Second Shot

Monday, February 1st, 2010

Owlsdpeklapheke

Last summer I was fortunate to have some unusual visitors to my back yard.  We had a cicada invasion, and the insects were crawling up out of the ground and making their usual racket. Siting in my office, I thought I saw a dog run across the clearing.  On further inspection, it was Great Horned Owl!  To add to my surprise, two juvenile owls waddled out of the underbrush.  All three were after the tasty morsels emerging from their sleep.

Seeing a Geat Horned Owl around these parts is rare, and having two juveniles on the ground in one's own yard even rarer.  I knew I had to get to work, for this might be a fleeting moment.

I had no idea what I was in for.  It took me two weeks to get a usable shot.  These guys earned their reputation as the top of the avian hunter chain, as they could see and hear my every move.  I tried a Doghouse blind, laying on the deck, laying in mud, a Kwik Kamo blind–enough things to make my wife start muttering about "obsession".  Finally I tried TWO Doghouse blinds, so the little rascals would be confused about where I was hiding.

Once I was able to keep the owls in the yard while I was in one blind, my problem became composition.  What owl would look my way when nice juicy cicadas were on the ground in front of them?  Any noise I made, including shutter noise, would make them look up and scurry.  Then it hit me.  The first shutter click might get their attention, the second shutter click could be my shot.  That's how I captured the image above.

My lesson was: stay on point past the first shot.  Don't line up your shot, only to pull away after your first shutter click. Stay focused and concentrate on what happens after your first click.  Be there for the second shot, the third shot and more.

You never know what might happen after that first shot.  The second one may the the one that nails it.