Posts Tagged ‘Tips & Techniques’

Tips For Great Fireworks Images

Friday, July 1st, 2011

Glory

Fourth of July is right around the corner. For all shutterbugs of all levels, that means we are all thinking about capturing that most quintessential of Fourth of July image – fireworks.

Beginner or seasoned pro, here are some tips I offer to help you in your quest for superb fireworks images.

Out of all of these helpful hints, I’ll give you an important pointer up front: do some research! See what various people are recommending on the net. Don’t just read this article–read a bunch!  Think of these tips as a recipe; there are a hundred different ways to make the perfect meatloaf. Pick and choose which recipes you follow. Bon Appetite!

Ready for my recipe? Here we go…

First, and most important, let’s all put down our camera(s). Come on…. I can wait all day… did you put it down? Good.

Location, Location, Location

This first tip is 100 percent unrelated to your camera. In fact it’s more important than your gear. My first tip is to scout your location in advance.
Lake Dillon Fireworks - 3

A good fireworks photo starts with a good location.  The old landscape rule of a strong foreground is important here. Look for items/people/things, which will give your fireworks shot some perspective and some context. Silhouettes are great!  Keep in mind that foreground objects do not always need to be right next to you.

The idea here is to avoid making a photo of just the fireworks. We’ve all seen ‘em. Heck, many of us have shot ‘em! You want to capture something unique, don’t ya? First part of the unique formula is perspective. Include some trees, people, boat, a dog with a Frisbee, and so on.

Also, check the wind for the evening. If you can, you want to shoot upwind. (Less smoke in your image!)

Keep your hands off those cameras… I see you in the back there. We’ll get to your equipment in a second -  I PROMISE.

The Early Photographer Gets The Best Spot

Second tip… get there early. One of my favorite fireworks shooting spots here in Colorado is also very popular with spectators. Our show usually starts at 9:00 p.m so we usually arrive around 4:00 p.m. Get there early, make your claim to the best spot (watch your foreground, stay away from any street lights, etc.), and enjoy the afternoon.

Oh and PS, don’t get your gear out right away when you arrive early! I know more people who have lost good equipment to an errant football or that Frisbee-catching dog than I care to share. Keep your gear in the car. Dusk is when you set up.

OK, OK, OK!  On to the camera itself. Yes… you can pick up your camera now and embrace it as you read on. Feel better? Moving on…

Lake Dillon Fireworks - 1
Tripod, Tripod, Tripod! (and a remote trigger)

There is no way of getting around this issue. You will need a tripod to get those iconic fireworks shots. Equally important is a cable release for your camera. Don’t have a cable release? Use your camera’s self timer.

Fireworks shots are all about the long shutter speed. Hand holding, even with Image Stabilization, usually will not get you the results you want.

theodoreastark_opg_fireworks_article_update01

Use a Long Shutter

The name of the game when you shoot fireworks is a long shutter speed. This gives you the long, spider-like light trails. If you are new to fireworks photography, I would say start at ISO 200, F8-10, and a Shutter Speed of ~4 seconds. Check your histogram and adjust as needed.

It will be dark so knowing your camera is important.  A hiker’s headlamp is helpful here.

Also, if you have in-camera noise reduction, use it. A warning though. This will prolong the writing of your images to your memory card. Still worth it in most cases.

Manual Focus

Set your focus to Manual and focus out to infinity. If you don’t, your camera will be wasting precious moments trying to autofocus. This is one time where you will kindly say:  “Yes, thank you Mr./Ms. Camera. I know you are usually very good at finding focus points, and usually I appreciate it. However, in this rare case, I know what I want and you will only get confused. No, I promise, I will turn the AF back on during the car ride home. There… that’s a good camera.”

The Short Moments Of Impetuous Joy

Shoot in Manual Mode

You want and you need to be in control of each and every element that makes a good photograph. Shooting in Manual will give you that freedom.

If you don’t usually shoot in manual, it’s ok. Take a deep breath and step outside your comfort zone.

If you live in an area with fireworks displays before the Fourth, or have some fireworks for your back yard, go and practice shooting in manual.  Don’t fear the Manual. The Manual is good.

Let Freedom Ring

Change Your Orientation

Simple.  Shoot both in Portrait and Landscape mode for a variety of images.

Leave The Flash At Home

It won’t help you. Yes, there are edge cases. But, nine times out of ten, flash will not help you. Leave it at home. You’ll thank me later.

Use Your Lens Hood

Yes, I know… some of you think I am crazy… Using your lens hood for fireworks is highly recommended. This will help keep a lot of the unwanted light away from your lens. You never know when the person next to you will pull out their camera phone or turn on a flashlight to find their dog and Frisbee. Do what you can to protect your lens from stuff like this.

Ignite The Darkness Of My Soul

RAW Rules!

Perhaps I am stating the obvious here, but you have more control and you are capturing more data if you capture your fireworks in RAW. I have heard every counter-argument in the book when it comes to RAW vs Jpeg.

Shoot in RAW. When you bring something back in Raw Conversion and you get that impressive shot, you can thank me.

Consider Under Exposing

Under Exposing will make your colors pop a little more. This is not for everyone, but I tend to underexpose with my fireworks. I find it gives me more flexibility in the digital dark room.

Bring LOTS of Formatted Memory Cards

Be prepared. Have them ready. Trust me, if you don’t, your card will fill up at the worst possible time, and you’ill spend an entire year regretting it.

Be Safe

Do not put your safety in jeopardy to get your fireworks shot. Use some common sense. Stay clear. Watch out for that dog.

Learn From your Experience

Take mental notes and write them down later. Observe what worked and what didn’t work. You may have to make changes on the fly,so know your camera. Don’t have regrets. You know what? Fourth of July is not going to be canceled so even if you didn’t get your money shot. There’s always next year.

Learn and grow. Strive to have this year’s fireworks photos be better than last year’s.

Don’t Forget To Enjoy The Show

Too many times, we as photographers get so wrapped up in the moment that we miss the event going on. Remember this is a HOLIDAY. Enjoy the fireworks show. If you do, it will be way more enjoyable when you get into the digital darkroom.

Lake Dillon Fireworks - 4

Extra Credit:

Ok 2 extra credit ideas…

If you are a seasoned pro at fireworks try to shoot them in HDR. That should spice things up!

Also, if you want less light trails and more explosion, cover the lens with a black sheet, cardboard, etc. while the fireworks climb and then remove the sheet to just get the explosion. Bulb mode is highly recommended for this!

OK that’s all. Have a wonderful and safe Fourth of July. Pet the nice dog. Throw the Frisbee. Go make some photographs!

I’m looking forward to seeing your images on the Outdoor Photo Gear Flickr Group.

Check out Ted’s work on his website, and follow him on Twitter.

 

Neos Adventurer Overshoes Video Review

Friday, May 13th, 2011

This is a short video to show you how I used my Neos Adventurer All Season Overshoes from Outdoor Photo Gear to keep feet warm and dry while in Antarctica and the Falkland Islands recently. It’s not an incredibly difficult subject but it took me a few times to get my head around the process and be able to get this footwear on quickly and out to the Zodiacs waiting to take us ashore.

You can also view the embedded video on your iPad, thanks to Vimeo!

Don’t forget to hit the full-screen button Full-Screen Button in the video window to view the video full-screen.

Note that there is an iPod/iPhone version of this video in iTunes, which is good for portability, but if you’re watching on a computer, the video above is better.

Neos Adventurer All Season Overshoes: http://mbp.ac/nosa

Baffin Boots on Amazon: http://mbp.ac/ambb

Note: These are affiliate links. The cost to you is unchanged of course, but you will be supporting the Podcast by buying with these links. Thank you!

Follow Martin on twitter here:  http://twitter.com/MartinBailey

Check out Martin's blog here:  http://blog.martinbaileyphotography.com/

And finally, get info on Martin's workshops here:  http://www.mbpworkshops.com/

Hi there, I'm Martin Bailey, and today I'm going to show you how I kept my legs and my feet dry when I was down in Antarctica last month.

What we're going to look at, basically, obviously you need some footwear. These are Baffin Boots. They're good down to like minus 70 degrees Celsius. These are my winter weather, insulated boots, that I use anywhere it is going to be cold.

But when you are going to be jumping in and out of zodiacs, or I'm doing beach landings, you want something to keep the saltwater off of these and also to give you a little bit more height.

These are basically what I bought. They're Neos Overshoes. These are the Adventurer All Weather Overshoes. I bought these from Outdoor Photo Gear. I'll put a link in the show notes and in the video.

Basically, these are what we're going to put over the boots. Nice and big so that you can do that. And then to stop water to get in even over the top of these, but you don't want to be really wearing waders down there. We've got just normal rainproof trousers. I'm going to show how to put these on. It's not difficult, but it's just something that obviously it took me a little bit of time, to get used to the rhythm of things. So I'm going to show you that today.

So, boots on first, what you see is, you need to pull the rainproof trousers on, under the bottom part there, and obviously, I would usually be wearing thicker trousers than this, if it's really cold weather, but this is not important for this review.

So we'll do the boots up nice and tight. Then we get the Neos Adventurer All Season Overshoes. Now these boots are big. To get an overshoe that will go over the top of these, I needed the XXL size I think they were. You can see that it takes a little bit of rummaging around. But then once you've got yourself in there, that's it. You've got the boot on there, and you just tuck this around. I generally then go over and make sure that the Velcro is all in contact. Then here's your adjustable strap. Pull that across nice and tight.

There you've got your overshoe on the top. That can stop water to this height. It's difficult to see this with everything being black, but then if you pull the rainproof trousers down to there, you can literally take water even higher than the top of the overshoe. Literally, I took a wave a few times well over the knee and my feet were dry as a bone and toasty for the whole time.

Let's stick the other one on for good measure. Just to show you that again. You can see my embarrassingly white legs, which my wife says they actually glow in the dark. Obviously, they don't, but they are very white. Tighten them up. Once again, grab the Neos overshoes. I put a link to Outdoor Photo Gear to actually pick up these boots or to select another range. Basically, there you go, bring this around and get it tight. Make sure that the Velcro strip is tight. Of course the water can get in through here, because the tunnel comes right the way up to the top. It doesn't have to be perfect. The Velcro itself is not the waterproof element here. Once again, pull the rain trousers down, over the top, and we have one waterproof legged Martin.

So that's that, really not a difficult subject, but something that it took me a little bit of sorting getting used to the process. So I thought I'd share that with you today.

Also, the Neos range are excellent. I do recommend that you use that. The Neos range are great quality, really good build, and they are very light. With this combination on, I walked quite a ways on the Falkland Islands. It wasn't like a trek in the Himalayas, but even with the overshoes on, I was able to trek for a good couple of miles one day in the Falklands. You can just leave them on. You can take them off if you want to. Their main purpose is to, like I say, keep you dry, when you're getting in and out of the Zodiacs, which are like the large river boat with an outboard motor. They keep you dry if you got a lot of swell when you're on the gangplank. Also when you get off the Zodiacs, a lot of the time, you actually end up having to wade in the sea for a few paces before you get onto the dry land.

So basically, once you're there though, you can take them off. Generally, there is a little base there that we make, and you walk around and photograph and then come back. Now, the good thing about leaving them on though is, if you are down somewhere else away from the base, and you feel like it's a good shot where you need to be a little bit out into the sea maybe, just walk out there. It's not a big deal, if you got your boots on.

So thanks for joining me today. Remember that if you go over to the blog, blog.martinbaileyphotography.com, I'll put a bunch of links into the show notes for you there, one over to RPG and Outdoor Photo Gear, because they are great bunch and they support the show in various ways. I like to support them as well. Please go over there and take a look at what they have to offer. If you need some overshoes, Neos is the way to go.

Catch you later.

Martin Bailey's Canon 1D Mark IV Custom Function Settings

Friday, May 14th, 2010

I’m sometimes asked what custom function settings I select on my Canon EOS 1D Mark IV camera, so I figured I’d share this information so that you can compare my settings with your own. I have also made my custom settings file available below for you to apply to your own camera if you want to try this. First, here are my settings.

Martin's Canon EOS 1D Mark IV Custom Settings

Martin's Canon EOS 1D Mark IV Custom Settings

This equates to the following custom settings:

C.Fn I: Exposure

1 – Exposure Level increments = 0 : 1/3-stop set  1/3-stop compensation
2 – ISO speed setting increments = 0 : 1/3 stop
3 – Set ISO speed range = * : Highest ISO set to H2 (51200). Lowest set to L (50) – I don’t use H3 (102,400)
4 – Bracketing auto cancel = 1 : off
5 – Bracketing sequence = 1 : -, 0, +
6 – Number of bracketed shots = 2 : 5 shots
7 – Spot metering link to AF point = 1 : Enable (use active AF point)
8 – Safety shift = 0 : Disable
9 – Select usable shooting modes = * : M, Av, Tv, BULB (I turn P off, because I will never use it)
10 – Select usable metering modes = – : Disabled; all metering modes available
11 – Exposure mode in manual exposure = 0 : Specified metering mode
12 – Set shutter speed range = – : Disabled;  settable shutter speed range is 1/8000 sec. to 30 sec.
13 – Set aperture value range = – : Disabled; maximum aperture to minimum aperture of lens attached
14 – Apply shooting/metering mode = – : Disabled; Pressing the <*> button will lock the exposure (AE lock).
15 – Flash sync. speed in Av mode = 0 : Auto
16 – AE Microadjustment = none set
17 – FE Microadjustment = none set

C.Fn II: Image/Flash exposure/Display

1 – Long exposure noise reduction = 1 : Auto; for 1 sec. or longer exposures, noise reduction is performed
2 – High ISO speed noise reduction = 0 : Standard
3 – Highlight tone priority = 0 : Disable
4 – Auto Lighting Optimizer = 3 : Disable (I don’t want anything automatic happening!)
5 – E-TTL II flash metering = 0 : Evaluative flash metering
6 – Shutter curtain sync. = 1 : 2nd-curtain synchronization
7 – Flash firing = 0 : Enable
8 – Viewfinder info. during exposure = 0 : Disable
9 – LCD panel illumination during Bulb = 0 : Off
10 – INFO. button when shooting = 0 : Displays shooting functions

C.Fn III: Autofocus/Drive

1 – USM lens electronic MF = 0 : Enable after One-Shot AF
2 – AI Servo tracking sensitivity = * I change this depending on the subject, between minus -1 click to +1 click
3 – AI Servo 1st/2nd image priority = 0 : AF priority/Tracking priority
4 – AI Servo AF tracking method = 1 : Continuous AF track priority (closer subject ignored as obstruction)
5 – Lens drive when AF impossible = 0 : Focus search on
6 – Lens AF stop button function = 7 : Spot AF (used to use ONE SHOT <-> AI SERVO toggle)
7 – AF Microadjustment = None set
8 – AF expansion with selected point = 3 : All 45 points area
9 – Multi-controller while metering = 1 : AF point selection
10 – Selectable AF point = 0 : 45 points
11 – Switch to registered AF point = 1 : Switch with Multi-controller
12 – AF point auto selection = 2 : Quick Control Dial direct:enable/Main Dial:enable
13 – AF point display during focus = 0 : On
14 -AF point brightness = 0 : Normal
15 – AF-assist beam firing = 0 : Enable
16 – Orientation linked AF point = 1 : Select different AF points (set multiple points per camera’s orientation)
17 – Mirror lockup = 0 : Disable (I add this to My Menu, so that I can access it quickly when necessary)
18 – Continuous shooting speed = * : H is set to 10 fps, and L is set to 7 fps
19 – Limit continuous shot count = – : Disable (I stop pressing the shutter button when I’m want it to stop!)

C.Fn IV: Operation/Others

1 – Shutter button/AF-ON button = 2 : Metering start/Meter + AF start (shutter button does not start focusing)
2 – AF-ON/AE lock button switch = 0 : Disable
3 – Quick Control Dial in metering = 0 : Exposure compensation/Aperture
4 – Assign SET button = 6 : Menu display
5 – Tv/Av setting for Manual exposure = 0 : Tv = Main Dial/Av = Quick Control Dial
6 – Dial direction during Tv/Av = 0 : Normal
7 – Av setting without lens = 1 : Enable
8 – WB + media/image size setting = 1: LCD monitor (pressing <FUNC> button displays menu screen)
9 – Lock/Voice Memo button function = 2 : Play memo (hold: Record memo)
10 – Button function when Quick Control Dial OFF = 0 : Normal (enable)
11 – Start movie shooting = 0 : Default (from LiveView)
12 – Focusing Screen = Standard focusing screen (Laser-matte)
13 – Timer length for timer = – : Disable (default 6 sec, 16 sec and 2 sec)
14 – Shortened release time lag = 0 : Disable
15 – Add aspect ratio information = 0 : Off
16 – Add image verification data = 1 : Enable (I don’t use this system, but you never know when you’ll need it)

Looking at Hands

Looking at Hands

Save Your Settings and Try Mine

If you want to try my settings the easy way, Save your own settings first, then download my settings file below, and apply that.

To save your settings:

  • Go to the Custom Functions menu and select [C.Fn settings register/apply]
  • Turn the Quick Control Dial and select [Register], then select [Set]
  • Turn the Quick Control Dial and select a Set from Sets 1, 2 or 3, to save your settings to, then press the Set button on your camera
  • Select [OK]

You might also want to save your setting to a memory card. I do this anyway, and make a local copy on my hard drive. I also copy these to my SD card, as I don’t format that as often as my CF cards.

To save your settings to a memory card:

  • Select [Save/load settings on media] from the third Set-up Menu (yellow wrench/spanner) and press the Set button on your camera
  • Select [Save]
  • I usually select [Change file name] and enter a name for that camera and/or settings set (1, 2 or 3).

Once you have your own settings backed up, download my settings file and copy it to a memory card, and put that into your camera.

Note that this is a compressed zip file that will expand to a file called MBP1DMIV.CSD.

To Load settings:

  • Select [Save/load settings on media] from the third Set-up Menu and press the Set button on your camera
  • Select [Load] and select the file MBP1DMIV.CSD from your memory card

You will only be able to restore this file to another Canon EOS 1D Mark IV.

Remember, this will change how your camera operates unless you have yours set up exactly the same as mine. You can easily change back to your own settings if you do what I said above, but if you are not comfortable with any of this, don’t do it.

Other Useful Settings:

Here are a few other settings like I ensure I use, but that are not custom functions and are not included in the settings file above.

  • Histogram = RGB. I always use the RGB histogram. It is so much more useful than the standard brightness histogram, although you can now see both when cycling through the information screens with the Info button
  • Color Space = Adobe RGB. This has no real bearing on my workflow, as I use RAW with Lightroom/ACR, but I like to leave this on
  • Live View Settings:
    • Grid Display = Grid 1. The 9 rectangle grid, for rule of thirds reference in Live View
    • Expo. Simulation = Enable. This is now on by default, but I ensure it stays on. I use Live View a lot!

Additional Information:

I arrived at my current settings based on thorough reading of the 1D Mark IV’s User Manual and the following documents from Canon, as well as a lot of tweaking based on trial and error during shooting.

Canon Document: AI Servo AF Custom Function & ISO Speed Settings Guide
Canon Document: Canon EOS 1D Mark IV White Paper : The Next Chapter of EOS, A New Standard of Excellence

I hope this information is of some help!

Follow Martin on twitter here:  http://twitter.com/MartinBailey

Check out Martin's blog here:  http://blog.martinbaileyphotography.com/

And finally, get info on Martin's workshops here:  http://www.mbpworkshops.com/